Indie4Less, Half a Dozen Edition: Emery Dress by Christine Haynes

The number (6 total) of Big 4 alternatives to this indie dress proves something about fashion design, for sure.

  1. New Look 6723
  2. Vogue 8667
  3. Butterick 5982
  4. Simplicity 1419
  5. Simplicity 1873
  6. New Look 6143

Credit to: StitchWench, what do stars do, and Vaginal Citizens Brigade.

(all amounts in USD)

Emery (front) by Christine Haynes, $18, paper

Emery (back)

First up, New Look 6723:

  • No collar, but two different neckline variations.
  • Connects the two darts into an armhole princess on the front.
  • Armhole princess on the back, rather than the shoulder princess the darts on the indie original might indicate.
  • Variations for sleeveless, same 3/4 sleeve, or short sleeve but with puffy gathers.
  • Full belt instead of bow attachment at center front.
  • Comes with a purse pattern!

New Look 6723, $4.29 on

Similarly, Vogue 8667:

  • Yay, collar! If you’re into that kind of thing. The front collar, however, is unbroken, whereas the indie has points on both front and back collars.
  • Armhole princess seams, front and back, again.
  • Sleeveless or smooth cap sleeve only; no long sleeves here.
  • Variations for straight skirt, A-line, or A-line with pleat panel, instead of gathered.

Vogue 8667, $5.99 (sale) on, paper

Last armhole princess lookalike, Butterick 5982:

  • Bust dart on top of armhole princess on the front
  • Back only has waist darts, no shoulder darts
  • No collar, but two neckline variations
  • Sleeveless or short-sleeve variations only
  • Gathered skirt has option of tiering different fabrics, such as creating a pseudo-ombre effect
  • Full belt with a bow instead of bow attachment at center front

Butterick 5982, $3.99 (sale) on, paper, or $8.99, PDF

For the anti-princess seamers, Lisette for Simplicity 1419 and Cynthia Rowley for Simplicity 1873, because honestly, once you take out the embellishing details, the bodice shaping looks the same on both to me:

  • Do you like sleeveless, cap sleeves, or gathered sleeves?
  • Do you like a Peter Pan collar, a keyhole neckline (thanks, Roisin!), an unadorned jewel neck, or a deeper scoop neckline?
  • Do you want a “loose fitting cape jacket” or a lapeled jacket with what Simplicity calls peplum but really looks more like ruffles?
  • Both dresses have gathered skirts, front bust and waist darts, and back waist darts only. Neither have back shoulder darts.

Lisette for Simplicity 1419, $1.99 (Jo-Ann’s sale) or $11.35 (, paper

Cynthia Rowley for Simplicity 1873, $1.99 (Jo-Ann’s sale) or $10.75 (, paper

And finally, New Look 6143:

  • Darts! No back shoulder darts. Hmm, this leads me to believe that the Big 4 draft their shoulder darts into the center back seam, which is less fussy to sew.
  • Pleated skirt instead of gathering the fullness, whatever floats your boat.
  • Sleeveless! Cap sleeves! 3/4 sleeves!
  • No collar, but that’s not such a loss, in my book. Instead, there’s an option for a contrasting front yoke, which is a little more contemporary than a vintage point collar.

New Look 6143, $4.29 at, paper


4 thoughts on “Indie4Less, Half a Dozen Edition: Emery Dress by Christine Haynes

  1. Great round-up. I guess there’ll always be demand for this silhouette. I have both the Emery pattern and Simplicity 1419 and the bodice shaping is very similar. The keyhole neckline is really cute in 1419 but the neckline is super high, like – stranglingly so! The armholes aren’t really drafted for sleeveless, although it’s given as an option – but both of these would be easy to rectify. I do love the Emery pattern, though and I’ve certainly got my $18 worth out of it!


  2. Have just found this and it’s a useful discussion. I had contemplated buying the Emery Dress, but bought Simplicity 1419 in the sales in April (£4.20 = bargain). I agree that the neckline is chokingly high on the 1419, but found the rest of the fitting on my pear shape to be brilliant when going up one size at the waist versus the bust. The length was also great on me at 5’9″ with a funny waist proportion.

    If I play with the neckline on my next version, I think this will be something I make lots of, and it was a breeze as my second dress – the first was a Crepe, which was a trial by fire due to the darts…


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